Note: These custom built snare drums are special order only. Please call us to place your order or to ask us any questions you may have.
Ron Dunnett's Snare Drum Concepts
"There's a reason why Dunnett Classic drums sound so good. It's not by chance. I've put years into research + development. But even that work has to come from an idea, and these are some of mine...
Mass
It's an important and widely misunderstood concept when it comes to building a great sounding snare drum. To put it not-so-simply, Density=Mass x Volume or, a heavier drum does not generate greater volume. One more time, a heavy shell does not mean greater volume.Use the paint can analogy: which metal paint can would generate more volume, one full of water or one that was empty? Weight and mass variables determine the voice of a drum as much as dimensions. Contrary to popular trends based on myths and misinformation, my designs pay particular attention to those factors. Combined with low mass/minimal contact hardware, efficient use of lugs (8 maximum) and undersized shells, my Classic stainless steel and titanium drums have an incredible inherent resonance, full range dynamics and a pure, rich tone. You may not prefer a drum with this much power and resonance, but remember one thing about resonance - you can always control it-but only if its there in the first place.
Edge Flange
Think cymbals for a moment, specifically the difference between a crash and a china type. What makes them sound so different? The flange. Bend something and you alter the way it resonates. That principle also applies to a metal drum shell. Virtually all metal snare drums currently available have a flange that serves as a (blunt) bearing edge. Dunnett Classic drums do not have a flange and as a result resonate clear and clean with full sustain. Simple logic. And of course non-flanged edge also provides for easy and precise tuning/tensioning.
Shell Gauge
As with wood, the gauge (thickness) of a metal shell determines what the drum will sound like. Consider the difference between solid and hollow body guitars. The construction (read mass) of the hollow body makes it acoustically ideal. In my experience a 14-18 gauge thickness is optimum. Anything thicker than that (as in the 3mm+ shells some companies offer) and the drum becomes a "solid body" with the voice coming more from the heads than from the drum as a whole ( and at 25lbs or more it makes for a REALLY heavy drum, or a light boat anchor!). Although I offer drums in any gauge I strongly recommend 16 gauge regardless of the material you chose. If you are unsure about gauge and its relationship to inches click here to view a gauge chart. Hit the CONCEPTS button to return.
Sometimes trying new ideas-even little things-can make a big difference.
Venting
You won't see any "breather" holes or air vents on a Dunnett Classic shell. In a non-vented shell, the air inside the drum acts as a highly efficient pnuematic transducer, carrying the vibration of the top head to the bottom on a 1:1 ratio. In no way does this inhibit the free movement of the head. Thus a drum without a vent is more sensitive and more responsive. However, under certain extreme conditions ie: aggressive playing, the drum may require venting. Again, the traditional air vent is a poor method. Correct venting is achieved by allowing the air column inside the drum to travel from the top head, where compression begins, to the bottom head and then exit the shell. On a vented Dunnett Classic a very small 1/8" hole is drilled 1/2" from the bottom bearing edge beneath each lug.
Snare Beds
Snare beds are required for a snare drum to function and a properly engineered and applied bed makes a huge difference in response and performance. On an 8 lug/14" drum the beds are cut 1/4" deep and run just past the lugs on either side of the throw off/butt. This design eliminates snare "buzz" and accomodates the use of wider 42 strand snares.
Cryogenics
In March 2000 I became the first and so far only company to offer cryogenic prcessing of drum shells. The cryogenic treatment used is a proprietary process that involves computer controlled temperature reduction via slow diffusion of liquid nitrogen into a vacuum sealed chamber over a period of several hours. Once at the desired temperature of -328 below zero, the bottom temperature is maintained for periods up to thirty six hours before a 12 hour reverse cycle begins. The entire cycle takes about three days.Deep cryogenic tempering can significantly extend the performance, integrity and productive life of metal drum shells, hoops and snare wires. Deep cryogenic temperatures are required to effect a complete molecular change in most alloy steels, converting retained austenite into martensite (a more refined grain structure, which is more uniform than austenite ). Cryogenic tempering transforms the micro structure into a more uniform structure that is more durable, stronger, longer lasting, and more dimensionally stable. The results of cryogenic treatment are not visually detectable without the aid of an electron microscope. Changes in material structure take place at the molecular level when subjected to long periods of deep cryogenic temperatures of -328 degrees below zero. Cryogenic tempering completely de-stresses the shell and the weld is essentially negated, rendering the drum virtually ÒseamlessÓ. Applied to other drum components, cryogenic tempering substantially increases strength of standard triple flange hoops and the life of snare wires.
Other Ideas
I have also developed a combination wood/metal shell, what I refer to as the "Woodliner". The simple concept of lining the inside of a metal shell with wood. The warmth of wood with the benefits and qualities of metal. I've also pioneered the art of sand etching on metal drums, a unique alternative to engraving. Got an idea? I can put almost any pattern or image on a shell. And of course, the Titanium shell snare drum.
One of the drawbacks of metal shell drums was that you had a very limited choice of finishes, if any. Now we have a choice : 4 natural metal finishes and a virtually unlimited selection of colour coatings including sparkle and transluscent (see through) finishes. These finishes can even be combined to give some really unique effects and have the added benefit of slightly warming the tone of the drum. I also offer nickel plating on the brass shells for that warm vintage look. Ever wish you could have a metal shell to match your wrapped kit? Who says you can't? 24k gold plating is also available as an option on hoops and hardware. Color lacquering on brass and copper shells is also available and is suitable for drums that are to be custom engraved the old fashioned way.
Face it, good drums aren't cheap. (And an expensive drum ain't always good!) They are an investment. I offer drums of the highest quality, unique in sound and appearance at a price that is reasonable and affordable. I have heard some people say that offering an affordable price somehow diminishes product quality in the eyes of a potential client or, in other words, if it's inexpensive its cheap. And that may very well be true in some cases, but not with the drums I build. No expense is spared in the creation of one of my drums from the shell right down to the last stainless steel screw. (Know any other drum company that uses all stainless fasteners?) Obviously drum making is a very competitive business and products are subject to comparison. I like that. I invite you to compare a "Standard Classic" with anything available in its class to see how it measures up. I think you'll be impressed.
Yadda yadda yadda. I've put this info here because I feel that if you take the time to read it it makes sense. But beyond all the theory and talk and ideas and endorsements and advertising and BS that surrounds drumming there's only one thing that counts-how a drum sounds to you. Base your drum purchasing decision on that and you'll never regret it."
